Ingredients & Culinary Terms
Understanding the ingredients and terminology of Shanghai cooking is essential for navigating recipes and achieving authentic results. This guide covers the fundamental components that define this regional cuisine, from essential pantry items to fresh ingredients and specialized terminology.
Soy Sauce and Seasonings
Soy sauce is the foundation of Shanghai seasoning, but not all soy sauces are equal. Light soy sauce (sheng chou) is saltier and used for seasoning and dipping. Dark soy sauce (lao chou) is thicker, less salty, and adds color and depth to braised dishes. Many Shanghai recipes use both types in combination.
Shaoxing wine, a fermented rice wine from Zhejiang province, is another essential. It adds complexity to marinades and braising liquids while helping to remove unwanted flavors from meat and fish. Quality organic Shaoxing wine aged for several years provides the best flavor.
Rock sugar (bing tang) provides the characteristic sweetness in Shanghai braised dishes. Unlike granulated sugar, it dissolves slowly and creates a glossy sauce. The subtle caramel notes it develops during cooking are difficult to replicate with other sweeteners.
Aromatics and Spices
Fresh ginger and scallions form the aromatic base of countless Shanghai dishes. These are typically sliced or smashed to release their flavors into oil before other ingredients are added. Garlic appears less frequently than in other Chinese regional cuisines, used more as an accent than a foundation.
Star anise and cinnamon add warm, sweet notes to braised dishes. These spices are used whole and removed before serving, having imparted their essence to the cooking liquid. Sichuan peppercorns appear occasionally for their numbing, citrusy quality, though Shanghai cuisine is generally less spicy than Sichuan.
White pepper is preferred over black in Shanghai cooking, providing heat without dark specks that would mar the appearance of pale dishes. Toasted sesame oil is used as a finishing oil, never for cooking, adding nutty aroma to completed dishes.
Vegetables and Produce
Shanghai cuisine features a wide variety of vegetables, many specific to Chinese cooking. Bok choy, both Shanghai variety (small and tender) and regular, appears frequently. Napa cabbage, Chinese broccoli (gai lan), snow peas, and various melons are staples.
Bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, and lotus root provide distinctive textures. These are available fresh seasonally or canned year-round. Soaked dried mushrooms, particularly shiitake, add umami depth to vegetarian and meat dishes alike.
When sourcing organic versions of these vegetables, Asian markets and specialty grocers are often the best sources. Farmers' markets in areas with Asian communities may also carry organic Asian vegetables. Growing your own is another option for favorites like bok choy and scallions.
Proteins
Pork is the primary meat in Shanghai cuisine, used in everything from dumpling fillings to braised dishes. Belly, shoulder, and ground pork each have specific applications. Organic pork from heritage breeds offers superior flavor and texture for traditional preparations.
Chicken appears in poached preparations, cold dishes, and soups. Free-range organic chicken has the firm texture prized for these applications. The whole bird is typically used, with different parts suited to different dishes.
Freshwater fish and seafood are essential to Shanghai cooking. Carp, bass, and shrimp are common, prepared simply to highlight freshness. Sustainable sourcing is important given pressures on wild fish populations. Look for certified sustainable options or farmed alternatives.
Oils and Fats
Cooking oil selection affects both flavor and health in Shanghai cuisine. Peanut oil is traditional for its high smoke point and neutral flavor. Refined avocado oil is a modern alternative with similar properties and beneficial fats. For authentic flavor, unrefined peanut oil adds subtle nuttiness.
Lard was traditionally used for certain applications, particularly flaky pastries and some dumpling fillings. Rendered from quality organic pork fat, it provides unmatched texture in these preparations. For those avoiding pork, duck fat or high-quality vegetable shortening can substitute.
Toasted sesame oil is strictly a finishing oil, never used for cooking due to its low smoke point and strong flavor. A few drops added at the end of cooking provide distinctive nutty aroma that defines many Shanghai dishes.
Essential Terminology
Shanghai cooking uses specific terminology for preparations and ingredients. Understanding these terms helps navigate recipes and communicate about the cuisine.
Hong shao (red braise) refers to the technique of braising in soy sauce-based liquid until reduced and glossy. Qing chao (clear stir-fry) describes quickly cooking ingredients with minimal seasoning to highlight freshness.
Xian describes umami or savory taste, highly prized in Shanghai cuisine. Nen refers to tender texture, particularly in braised meats. Song describes the fluffy, open texture of properly made steamed buns.
Ingredient terms include dong gu (winter mushroom, dried shiitake), fa cai (hair vegetable, a type of moss), and mu er (wood ear mushroom). Learning these names helps when shopping at Asian markets where English labels may not be available.